When I first started riding my foil surfboard, I couldn’t believe how different it felt compared to traditional surfboards. The sensation of gliding above the water is unparalleled, and it requires a unique set of skills and knowledge to harness its full potential. I’ve learned a lot about controlling this amazing piece of equipment in various conditions, and I’d like to share some insights with you.
In calm conditions, the foil surfboard feels like magic. The lift generated by the foil as it cuts through the water at speeds as low as 4 to 8 mph means that I can ride much smaller waves than I ever could on a traditional board. This low-speed lift is one of the most delightful aspects of foiling. The efficiency of the hydrofoil design allows for sustained rides, even on small wave energy, with the foil doing most of the work once you generate initial speed.
Choppy water, however, presents more of a challenge. The key in these rougher conditions is maintaining stability while navigating swells and avoiding abrupt changes in lift, which can send you airborne or crashing down fast. Adjusting my stance and the angle of the board is crucial. Shifting my weight helps keep the nose of the board balanced and cuts through the chop more efficiently. On days when wind plays a factor, sometimes reaching speeds of up to 15 mph, I have to adjust my approach to keep the foil steady. Riding at an angle to the chop and slightly leaning into the wind provides the best stability.
One of the most exhilarating conditions for foil surfing is tackling larger waves. When riding bigger swells, the velocity naturally increases, and the foil becomes hyper-responsive. The sensation feels like flying as I carve long, graceful arcs on swells moving as fast as 10 to 15 knots. Unlike traditional surfing where I’d depend mostly on the wave breaking power, with a foil I can harness the energy further out. This ability to ride unbroken swells increases the surfable area of the ocean by nearly 50% compared to conventional surfing.
Foil surfboards can also be controlled by adjusting the angle of attack. This involves tilting the leading edge of the fin wing upward or downward. At higher speeds or when descending, adjusting the angle downward can help reduce lift, preventing the board from lifting too high out of the water and maintaining control. Conversely, when additional lift is required, like ascending a swell, increasing the angle of attack upward is beneficial.
I often reflect on the evolution of foiling, inspired by industry pioneers who shaped this young sport. Companies like GoFoil and Slingshot were among the first to popularize these boards. Early adopters have shared countless stories of trial and error, tweaking wing sizes, shapes, and setups to perfect their ride. The foil itself comes in various sizes and shapes, each affecting lift and maneuverability differently. A larger wing provides more lift, making it suitable for lighter winds and smaller waves. Meanwhile, a smaller wing day-glider becomes agile and faster, but requires more power, like in bigger wave conditions.
I remember when Kai Lenny, a big wave surfer and complete waterman, pushed foiling into the mainstream. Watching him take on massive waves with a foil showcased the sport’s extraordinary potential. This shift in surf culture reflects how foil boards have expanded the possibilities and days you can surf. It’s not just about riding big waves; it’s about maximizing every opportunity the ocean gives you.
My 75 cm mast works optimally for most conditions, offering a good balance between water depth clearance and maneuverability. In shallow waters, I adjust to a shorter mast to avoid hitting the bottom, but in more substantial swellings or open ocean conditions, the longer mast provides stability by reducing the effect of surface turbulence.
Understanding the ocean’s rhythm, the wind’s whispers, and the delicate dance over water requires more than just skill; it demands respect and adaptation. Much like tuning a musical instrument, controlling a foil surfboard requires fine-tuning in response to the symphony of ocean conditions. Every session is a new learning experience, revealing more about the dynamic interplay between board, wave, and rider. Each ride strengthens my bond with the ocean and deepens my appreciation for this incredible sport.
In truth, mastering a foil surfboard in varying conditions takes time, patience, and a keen sense of observation. Yet, each ride builds an intimate understanding of fluid dynamics and the pure joy of harnessing nature’s forces. After spending numerous hours on the water — sometimes close to 20 hours per week — I’ve found that no two waves are the same, and every condition brings a thrilling challenge and an opportunity to improve.